PHOTOGRAPHER OF DEATH

Niraja, a 20-year-old photographer, operates a photo studio on the bustling streets of Varanasi, one of the world's oldest cities. His unique job involves capturing the final moments of the deceased as their families process to the crematorium. Situated along the sacred Ganga River, the Kashi Manikarnika Ghat is a revered burial ground where cremation symbolizes both creation and destruction. Hindus believe that dying in Varanasi grants immediate liberation from the cycle of rebirth, making it a significant honor for the community.

The air is thick with the pungent odor of burning wood and flesh, while the somber chant "Raam Naam Satya Hai" reverberates against the mud walls, marking the solemn procession. With over a hundred cremations occurring daily, death becomes a source of livelihood for many. Among them are wood merchants, florists, priests, and, notably, photographers like Niraja, who document the deceased for families seeking closure and proof of death for legal purposes. 

For over five years, Niraja has continued this generational trade, armed with two broken cameras: one takes pictures but lacks a working LCD screen, while the other has a damaged lens. Despite the unconventional nature of his work, families often encourage him to take photos as keepsakes or evidence for inheritance claims, as crematoriums do not issue death certificates.

Once he finishes shooting and the family is content, the cremation can commence. Niraja must then hurry to a lab outside the city to develop the photos before returning to the family. Missing this window would mean no profit for him.

“Photography for me is not looking, it’s feeling,” Niraja says. “If you can’t feel what you’re looking at, then your pictures won’t resonate with others.” Observing him, it's clear that he captures the delicate interplay of life and death, honoring those whose last wish is to be cremated by the Ganga.